The use of synthetic fabrics and rising garment demand have contributed to a serious plastic pollution issue. An estimated 92 million tons of textile waste are produced annually, and because only 1% of this material is recycled, the majority of it ends up in landfills.
According to Textile Exchange, the market for textile fibers was 62% made up of synthetics in 2020, including spandex and polyester. The majority of synthetic materials do not biodegrade in soil; instead, they take hundreds of years to break down and release toxins into the groundwater and soil. Moreover, polymer-based microfibers shed from clothing during production, use, and laundry, wind up in waterways and people's bodies through inhalation, and so pose a health concern.
One solution to the waste problem in fashion is to transition from synthetic to natural fibers.
Due to their natural, renewable, and biodegradable qualities, man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCFs), or wood-based materials like viscose and lyocell, are particularly intriguing alternatives to synthetics. They are also quite adaptable. They may produce fabrics ranging from silky to non-woven, making them suitable for use in household goods, clothing, and hygiene products. Even with these advantages, adoption is still modest. Between 1990 and 2021, the amount of MMCF manufacturing more than quadrupled to 7.2 million tons, yet it still only accounts for 6% of the market.
The other key concern around MMCF production is its chemical-intensive production process, which may potentially pose damage to the environment and health risks to people. And the industry has stepped up its efforts to address these issues head-on. Sateri and some leading viscose manufacturers, accounting for more than 50 percent of viscose production, have committed to best-in-class benchmarks such as the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) MMCF Responsible Fibre Production Guidelines and the European Union Best Available Techniques Reference Document (EU-BAT BREF) on polymers.
Sateri recognizes the need for the fashion industry to decouple growth from further resource impact. As a major raw material supplier, Sateri aims to support the industry’s ambition through its Vison 2030 long-term plan, which covers four dimensions of sustainability: Climate and Ecosystem Protection, Closed Loop Production, Innovation and Circularity, and Inclusive Growth. “Our vision articulates how we aspire to grow in a way that we put back more into the environment and society than we take,” said Miranda Chen, strategic marketing director at Sateri. “This would also be Sateri’s defining market differentiator underpinning our continued growth in volume and value.”
Leading MMCF producer Sateri, whose viscose has been certified by TUV Austria to be biodegradable in soil, water, and marine settings, as well as home composting, has shown that plant-based MMCFs may return to nature after their useful lives. During 28 days, fibers left in these conditions will degrade into non-toxic organic material.
The possible impact on forests is one of the primary criticisms of MMCFs. So, it is essential to know where the fibers came from and to be able to verify it. This is where sustainable forest management certifications, like those offered by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC), can play a significant role in ensuring that clothing made of wood-based cellulosic fibers like viscose and lyocell is responsibly sourced and produced. According to Textile Exchange, the percentage of wood-based fibers that are certified increased from 55 to 60 percent in 2020 to 60 to 65 percent in 2021, however there are still upwards of 35 percent of fibers that are not certified.
Sateri has made the commitment to only purchase viscose from plantations that are managed responsibly and with the use of renewable resources. All of Sateri's suppliers of dissolving wood pulp (DWP) must sign a Statement of Commitment to its Pulp Sourcing Policy and submit data on greenhouse gas emissions in addition to procuring certified materials as demonstrated by the PEFC chain of custody certification process.
In addition to sustainability, Sateri places a strong emphasis on the research and development of new products, which has helped to market a variety of cellulose fiber products, such as viscose fiber EcoCosy®, Sateri Lyocell, and recycled fiber FINEXTM. The R&D costs for Sateri in 2022 were more than $88 million.
cutting the circuit
Circularity may address textile waste while lowering the amount of wood required for fiber production.
Around half of the world's textile fiber volumes and 60% of MMCF are produced in China, where Sateri's activities are situated. At the level of mills, manufacturers, and retail, the nation is also a sizable user of these commodities. China is approaching circularity aggressively. The National Development and Reform Commission established a 2025 objective to recycle a quarter of textile waste, resulting in the production of 2 million metric tons of recycled fiber per year, after the government unveiled a five-year strategy in 2021 that gives priority to material reuse.
Innovating around circularity, Sateri introduced recycled fibers with up to 20% recycled content under the FINEXTM brand in 2020. FINEXTM, an abbreviation for "Fiber Next," is created by combining pre- and post-consumer waste with wood pulp to create circular fibers that are equivalent to virgin wood-based products. In the most recent period, Sateri has developed FINEXTM viscose fibers with up to 50% recycled content with success.
With values, MMCFs
The production process plays a key role in lowering the environmental effect of MMCFs, together with ethical sourcing and circular business models.
The emphasis of Sateri's viscose and lyocell mills is on increasing effectiveness and reducing waste. In 2021, the corporation retrieved 98 percent of the sulfur. The goal outlined in our 2030 strategy has been achieved two years ahead of schedule thanks to independent verification that our viscose factories comply with EU-BAT regulations, according to Chen.
The business was the first manufacturer of viscose to get the Oeko-Tex Made in Green mark, the strictest certification available that involves evaluations of the factory's environmental and social responsibilities as well as tests for dangerous compounds.
Sateri gives quality the same importance as sustainability. In addition to having a reputation for sustainability, Sateri's EcoCosy® fibers are skin-friendly, breathable, and have longer staple fiber lengths than other natural fabrics. Functional viscose from Sateri provides softer hand feel and anti-bacterial qualities.
Anything from intimates and activewear to fashion apparel and children's clothing has been made with EcoCosy. Chen stated that "modern fiber production technology helps to increase the suppleness of fibers." It may be blended with different fibers and yarns to satisfy the softness and comfort preferences of consumers.
Brands may use viscose to better satisfy consumer wants today. The purchasing patterns of customers have altered in the post-epidemic era, according to Chen. "People started giving physical and mental wellness more weight than professional success. Customers' busy lifestyles gave way to comfortable, healthy living, which also affected clothing choices.
In line with the goals of the United Nations Paris Climate Agreement to keep global warming to 1.5°C, Sateri wants to become a net-zero producer by 2050. In order to fulfill this goal, Sateri has developed carbon-neutral variations of its EcoCosy® viscose fibers, Sateri Lyocell, and FINEXTM recycled fibers, which are coupled with credits to make up for carbon emissions that cannot be prevented or reduced. Along with achieving our own objectives, Chen added, "We also want to help our clients achieve their sustainability desire to lower the carbon intensity of their goods."
In the following 15 years, it is predicted that MMCF output might increase to 10 million tons, or almost double where it is now. Wood-based fiber producers like Sateri are laying the groundwork for future development, whether it is in the areas of sustainability, circularity, or adoption rates.
